SF 503 
.C74 
Copy 1 






Complete Guide 

FOR 

CONDITIONING, 

HEELING AND 

HANDLING 



THE # GAME # COCK 



FOR THE PIT 








lllillillilii^^ 



1 



COMPLETE GUIDE 



— FOR — 



CONDIXIONING, 

HEBLING AND 



HANDLING 



The ' Gam? ' Co(k 

FOR HTHE: pit. 



BY 

GEORGE CONDERMAN, M. D. 

HORNELLSVILLE, N. Y. 



Illustrated by Original Etchings. 



PRICE ONE DOLLAR. ' 







.C74 



40821 

COPYRIGHT 1899, 
By GEORGE OONDERMAN, M. D. 



-^^ 



Press of the Eveniing Tribune, 
hornellsville, n. y. 



^Ka'b^^^ JvaJ^ V^^'^^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



For years I have viewed with disfavor the 
tendency on the part of practical cockers to 
withhold Irom the traternity at large the 
principles and methods employed by them 
in conditioning, heeling and handling the 
game cock. 

In the past, when it has been so difficult to 
obtain the necessary instructions in this line, 
the professional cocker may have been justi- 
fied in guarding his secrets so zealously, 
they being his stock in trade, acquired as a 
result of years ol experier.ce and at the ex- 
pense of many a costly and expensive experi- 
ment. 

Nevertheless, I believe it is for the best 
interest of those concerned in the advance- 
ment of this sport, that the correct principles 
be made public, thereby giving to the ama- 
teur the benefit of the experience of his 
elders, to the end that he may be relieved of 
the embarrassment attending the placing of 
his birds, money, reputation and peace ot 
mind at the mercy ot some one who has a 



reputation as a heeler, but whose reliability 
is questionable. 

The correct principles of conditioning- and 
heeling are by no means as difficult ot mas- 
tering as most old cockers would lead one 
to believe, yet there are a class of people so 
sadly deficient in confidence in their own 
ability as to be devoid of any tact or ingenu- 
ity, consequently they can never become 
successful heelers, and upon such the efforts 
of this book will be labor lost ; but I trust to 
the amateur endowed with good common 
sense, who possesses the necessary confi- 
dence, and who will follow closely the in- 
structions laid down in this book, will be 
rewarded by becoming a successful heeler 
and handler of game cocks. 

The mission of this book, therefore, is to 
give to the possessor the information I have 
been able to obtain, together with the benefit 
of many years experience, to the end that 
anyone who will practice my methods will 
soon develop the necessary dexterity enab- 
ling him to become his own heeler and 
handler. Trusting that my efforts will meet 
with the general approval ot the fraternity at 
large, I am Faithfully yours, 

George Conderman, M, D. 



TTHK PIT. 



In constructing a pit you should strive to 
have it at least 10x12 feet and about 18 inches 
high ; also arrange to have corners "blocked" 
or cut off, by placing a 10 or 12 inch strip 
firmly in each corner. Insist upon having it 
well lighted. Never fight in sawdust, dry 
earth nor shavings. Tan bark is the only 
bottoming, unless fresh earth is used. 

CONDITIONING APARTMENTS. 

Secure a good, warm, well lighted and 
well ventilated room, so that the tempera- 
ture may be kept at about 60 degrees, not 
varying more than five degrees either way. 
As lamp light is required room may be 
darkened accordingly. 

Insist upon a warm room lor heeling and 
fighting. Never use a cellar lor a condition 
place, and prohibit smoking in conditioning 
apartments. 



CUTTING OUT COCK. 

In cutting out a cock, the first feathers to 
be trimmed should be the tail, leaving it not 
less than six inches in length ; as much more 
as natural, so long as you cut square across 
the top. Next trim the feathers around the 
bottom of the tail called cock leathers, either 
in a straight or semi-circular line, according 
to taste ; trim as near alike as possible on 
each side so as to present a neat appearance. 
Next trim the wings straight across, taking 
off no more than necessary in order to get a 
straight edge ; both wings should be trimmed 
exactly alike as to length to insure the cock 
being evenly balanced when in battle. 

The vent shou'd always be trimmed. This 
should be done when C(^ck is taken up for 
conditioning. II permissible enough super- 
fluous feathers may be cut Irom underneath 
wings and saddle featheis and around bottom 
ot tail to slightly decrease weight, or if 
deemed advisable provided a cock is to be 
fought in warm quariciS. 

The feathers around the comb and head 
are sometimes clipped closely to present a 
neat appearance and harmony with other 
extremity, insuring cleanliness and enabling 



the handler to more readily detect and judge 
the result ot injury resulting from cuts about 
the head. 

HOW TO DISTINGUISH RIGHT 
AND LEFT HEELS. 

By clasping the leather ol a heel between 
the thumbs and index fingers of both hands, 
the heel on a level with your eye and extend- 
ing from you, by sighting through the socket 
you will observe that the point ot the right 
heel will turn to your right and the point of 
the left heel will turn to your left; in other 
words, the points of the heels should always 
point towards the cock's head. 

EXERCISING. 

During the time allotted for conditioning, 
it is essential that cocks be tossed or ftirted 
in order to develope wind and muscle, also to 
improve the steadiness of the bird as well as 
the disposition. It is therefore necessary 
that you handle your birds as gently as pos- 
sible ; by so doing you are benefited in the 
end by noticing that such careful exercise 
has been the result of careful treatment, and 



9 

your birds will be cool, gentle and collected 
throughout their battle. 

Cocks should be tossed on a soft blanket 
or cushion well padded with straw or hair. 
Throw your birds up about two feet from 
cushion, in such a manner that they will 
strike directly on the cushion each time in 
alighting. This is done by catching the bird 
with both hands closely around the wings, 
allowing your hngers to protrude under 
each wing, but do not clinch or squeeze the 
bird in the least; throw him in the air about 
two feet, letting him strike on the cushion; 
grasp him again gently pnd toss again, re- 
peating until bird shows signs ot breathing; 
this will be enough for the first day. In- 
crease the work gradually'' each da}^ until 
satisfied he has sufficient wind and muscle. 
Alter two or three days it is excellent exer- 
cise to walk a cock back and forward on 
a long cushion until he regains his breathing 
alter prolonged flirting. 

As an advantage in determining fighting 
qualities of a bird it is well to spar birds 
during conditioning, by the use of muffs 
tied on the bird's legs and letting him fly tor 
a few minutes. This will enable you to 



10 

closely observe as to the cock's peculiarities, 
also being an excellent exercise and relief 
from the strain and tedious course the bird 
is undergoing-. Sparring once during con- 
ditioning is sufficient and should be indulged 
in about the tenth day, in the evening. Alter 
sparring examine closely to be sure no injury 
has been inflicted, bathe and dry birds and 
retire them for the day. 

EXERCISING A VICIOUS COCK. 

The simplest and best method perfected to 
enable one to train a vicious cock to give in 
t^ ordinary methods ot being handled, is to 
^cL into a pit, if you fortunately can afford 
one, if not a room suitably strewn with tan 
bark as a bottoming. By drawing the at- 
tention of the cock you are conditioning to 
a bird you have in your hands he will fly all 
over the room alter the bird. In this way 
he will not only get the best of exercise but 
will be taught to strike his opponent in any 
part of the body, not waiting to find the 
head, which has cost many a cock his life. 

METHOD OF CONDITIONING- 

Many methods have been advocated for 
conditioning, each considered by its author 



11 

as the best, yet the majority differing but 
little in a few minor points. As it would be 
impossible for me to give you all the known 
methods and, on the whole, would only have 
a tendency to confuse, I will minutely de- 
scribe to you my favorite method, which I 
believe possesses as much merit as any and 
will yield perfectly satisfactory results. 

Put your birds in condition coops, else- 
where described and leave without food for 
twenty-tour hours, but give all the water 
they will drink, examine carefully to see that 
they are in good health and feather, see that 
they are tree from vermin — if not '' tallow " 
is one of the best exterminators that is not 
injurious to the birds — wash and dry the legs 
and feet, clipping ofi the longer feathers 
around the vent, carefully weigh with empty 
crop, making a note of each one's weight 
and also about how much you wish to re- 
duce. If bird is very fat he will probably 
stand about eig^ht ounces ; if not, five or six 
ounces. Occasionally a cock will need to 
take on a few ounces to be at his best. These 
points can only be arrived at by experience 
and good judgment, which will tell you what 
you should consider proper fighting weight. 



12 

If satisfied that you will fight the particular 
cocks you have, cut them out and cut their 
heels off one-half inch from leg", using pow- 
dered chalk to stop the bleeding. This 
should be pressed on the end ot the stump 
with your thumb and held there for a tew 
minutes. 

For those that are tat give a pill to each, 
composed of ten grains of cream of tartar 
mixed in butter. In about an hour feed 
bread and milk all that they will eat; then 
flirt or toss a tew times to start physic. 
In a few hours you may give a little toast 
moistened with water or milk. 

THIRD DAY. 

In the morning give a few dips of raw 
egg and feed of wheat. In the evening give 
cracked corn, flirting twice through the day, 
about forty tosses each time, giving water 
twice, about four dips each time. 

FOURTH DAY. 

In the morning give a feed of dry " corn 
bread " (made according to receipt elsewhere 
given). In the evening feed wheat, exercis- 
ing the same as previous day. Water twice, 
about four dips each time. 



13 
FIFTH DAY. 

In the morning feed cracked corn. In the 
evening feed either corn or wheat, giving 
half ot hard boiled egg to each. Water 
twice, about four dips each time. 

SIXTH DAY, SEVENTH DAY, EIGHTH DAY. 

Feed same as filth, increasing work to 60 
or 65 tosses. 

NINTH DAY. 

In the morning feed pearl barley and give 
barley water to drink. At noon feed a little 
lean beef, chopped fine. Work twice, in- 
creasing work to at least 75 tosses. In the 
evening give half ot hard boiled egg and 
cracked corn. 

TENTH DAY. 

In the morning give half of raw egg to 
each and leed wheat ; at noon a piece of 
sour apple. In the evening teed cracked 
corn discontinuing the wheat from now, as 
it may physic when you do not want it to do 
so. 

ELEVENTH DAY, TWELFTH DAY. 

Feed corn twice, morning and night; 
water twice always, but never more than 



14 

five or six dips at a time, increasing work 
gradually as they will stand it. 

THIRTEENTH DAY. 

It lought at night feed a little pearl barley 
or cracked corn and a few dips of water, an 
hour or so after feeding, exercising lightly. 

Always handle your birds gently as pos- 
sible, change straw in coop daily ; allow 
them to become accustomed to lamp light, if 
to be fought at night ; keep in a warm, well 
ventilated place. 

HEELING. 

The noted Dr. Cooper was among the first 
to lay down definite rules for heeling. These 
are generally known to the cocking world, 
and are as follows : 

" Let your bird be held by a competent 
person so that the inside of leg is perfectly 
level ; cover the spur with a piece of damp 
kid so as to get the socket of the gaff to fit 
tightly and prevent its turning or shifting. 
Then take your thumb and forefinger and 
work the hind toe of the cock ; while doing 
this you will see the leader of the leg rise 
and fall at the upper joint ot leg. You will 
set the right gaff on a line with the outside 




The above cut shows the vehitive points ou the cord 
which are the guide for the proper setting of the heel. 
Those on the left of page show where a head and meek 
hitting cock should be heeled, those on the right a 
shuffling cock. 



16 

of leader at the upper joint, and the left gaff 
you will set on a line with the inside ot lead- 
er at the upper joint. Be caretul not to set 
the point too tar in, as it would cause the 
cock to cut himselt. When you have the 
gaff arranged properly, tie it with good wax 
ends, but not too tight as to cramp the legs 
or toes. After the gaffs are tied on wet 
your fingers and pull the cock's toes so they 
will not be cramped." 

The method ot Dr. Cooper is amongst the 
most popular ones at this day, a large per- 
centage of cockers faithfully adhering to the 
same. 

Grist in his " Keep " modifies the method 
ot Dr. Cooper in that he directs that the 
right gaff should be set on a line with the 
outside of leader at the upper joint, and the 
left gaff (instead of on a line with the inside 
of leader advised by Dr. Cooper) he sets one- 
eighth of an inch farther out than the right 
gaff. This method is advised for one and one- 
quarter inch up to two inches for day fighting. 

If for night fighting, he directs that the 
right gaff be set on a line with outer edge of 
leg, and the left gaff one-eighth of an inch 
farther out. 



17 

You will notice that in both these methods 
no distinction is made as to the fighting- pe- 
culiarities of the cock heeled, as for instance 
you may have a purely head and neck hitter, 
known as a breaking fighter. You may have 
a shuffling cock that may be a high or low 
shufBer, or vou may have a mixed fighter. 

Although I dislike to differ from the ex- 
cellent authorities quoted, it has always been 
my belief and experience that cocks should 
be heeled in keeping with their fighting pe- 
culiarities, which peculiarities should invari- 
ably be ascertained by sparring the cock, 
carefully noting the same and heel him ac- 
cordingly. 

Upon this theory I shall proceed to de 
scribe to you minutely my method, for 
which I not only claim scientific principles 
but practical results. 

In the first place, the cock should be in 
perfect readiness to fight ; that is, cut out, 
his heels having been previously sawed off 
one-halt inch from the leg. 



19 

Chamois skin strips, windings and packing 
should all have been carefully selected and 
close at hand, in order that the cock will not. 
have to be held in a cramped position for a 
longer time than is actually necessary. 

See that you have perfect light and are 
comfortably seated. Choosing the one you 
consider most competent to hold the bird, 
you have him seated directly opposite 3^ou 
and direct him how you want the cock held. 

It the right heel is to be heeled first, in- 
struct the holder of the bird to put both 
knees close together, laying the cock on his 
right side in the lap of the holder, his right 
arm being under the right wing, clasping 
the shank of the right leg with his thumb 
and middle hnger, allowing the index finger 
to extend underneath the shank toward the 
toes on the under side. This is done as 
support to the leg while heeling. 

The leg should not be raised nor lowered 
nor held too tightly. The chamois skin 
strips having been selected, being one-half 
inch in width, any length desired unless re- 
stricted, a small loop-hole should be cut 
about one-half inch from the end of each of 
the long strips. You should also have two 



20 

short strips about two inches in length ; lay 
on a short strip lengthwise of the leg, drawn 
over the stub ot the spur; grasp the leg on 
the under side, holding one end of chamois 
down with your thumb on the upper side, 
instruct the holder to do likewise at the other 
end of chamois strip ; place the slit in end of 
long strip over the short one and over the 
stub, drawing down to the shank, making 
one wind around the shank and over top of 
sttib ; then make one wind on upper side 
and wind below, place the heel on the stub 
to see if a good fit is obtained ; if not, make 
it so with another short strip, until a perfect 
iit is obtained, winding above and below 
until the long strip has been exhausted, al- 
lowing one more wind below than above, 
watch closely that a good, clean, perfect 
wind has been made to insure a good foun- 
dation for heeling. 

Place the heel upon the stub with the right 
hand, supporting the cock's leg with the left 
hand, draw both ends of the leather between 
the left hand supporting the leg. 

With the right hand you work the hind 
toe backward and forward to enable you to 
locate the cord at the upper joint. The 



22 

right heel is now on the right leg; draw the 
heel on cord and hold again with left hand, 
working the toe again, locate the center of 
cord, to which point you draw the point ot 
the heel ; this being done, be carelul not to 
move the heel while drawing leathers closely 
around the windings, ask the holder to allow 
his index finger to hold the leathers in place. 

Taking up the wax-end, ascertain the cen- 
ter ; first wind below the heel, once around, 
then above, once around ; winding below 
again vou will bring the strings to the top, 
making a loop around the blade at the top 
ot socket with each string, then down again 
on the same side, and continue to wind above 
and below until satisfied that heel has been 
safely tied. 

Be caretul not to wind too tight so as to 
compress or coid the cock's leg; the toes 
should be carefully pulled ; then by placing 
the cock on a round perch, as a broom han- 
dle supported on edge ot chair or table, if 
cock is able to grasp the same readily with 
his toes you may be assured he is not corded. 

The above method of adjusting and tying 
on the heels should always be carefully 
carried out. 



23 

The left le[^ should be heeled b}^ having 
the cock held in the same manner, but of 
course turned upon his lett side, supporting 
the leg to be held same as before, the holder 
holding his right forearm over the right 
wing and holding carefully between the 
fingers of the right hand the heel which has 
just been tied on, drawing it closely to the 
cock's side, so as to prevent his cutting him- 
self should he struggle while the other heel 
is being tied on. 

The left leg should be heeled as follows : 
Keep well in mind the center of the cord 
upon which you set the other heel, which 
you will again locate by working the hind 
toe. Now determine the middle distance 
between the center of the cord and the inside 
edge of cord ; set your lett heel directly on 
this point, carrying out the same method of 
packing and tieing advised for right leg. 

You have now heeled perfectly a cock for 
head and neck hitting, by some called a 
breaking fighter. 

For a shuffling cock the above instruction 

differs but little, but you should be cautious 

to observe and bear in mind their importance 

i n the cutting qualities which will be produced 



24 

The right leg for a shuffing cock is to be 
heeled by setting the point ol blade midway 
between the center and inner edge of cord, 
the left heel to be set on the inner edge of 
cord but no farther. 

If the cock heeled is a high shnfher, heel 
him the same as a head and neck hitter. In- 
variably all game cocks strike closer with 
left leg than with right. Should it be notic- 
able that the right stub sets higher on leg 
:jhan the left, you will know that the cock 
strikes closer with right foot; in that instance 
the heeling should be reversed according to 
the style ol fighting produced by the cock. 



26 

PITTING. 

To become a successful pitter, one must 
never loose his head in a fight. You must 
be able to watch every movement ot not only 
your own bird but that of your opponent 
also, and must possess an eye that can calcu- 
late to a certainty the damage your own 
bird has received as well as inflicted, enabling 
you to take advantage of all or any rules that 
will allow you to be the aggressor or take 
advantage of any point they may afford, as 
lor instance, by the clever foresight ot a 
handler he may allow his opponent the op- 
portunity to foul when such a chance is in 
store, but should be very reluctant and alert 
that such chance may not be strewn in his 
own pathway. 

The pitter of a cock can onl3^ handle under 
the rules prearranged for the battle, as when 
hung either in himself or the web ot the pit 
or when it may become necessar}^ to give a 
cock his wing, being very careful as to only 
this much being done, and that such permis- 
sion is stipulated in the rules governing, 

After first billing of cocks, and permission 
having been given by referee allowing the 
battle to proceed, a handler should always 



27 

maintain strict punctuality, seeing that his 
bird is always down on the score on time, 
being- always ready and cautious when the 
term ''handle" is called by referee, to be alert 
to respond to separate cocks quickly and 
lairly. 

Always compl}^ strictly and faithfully with 
the above, know the rules thoroughly, so as 
to improve every advantage permissible, yet 
take no chances of fouling. 

A neat and clever handler will always be 
possessed of a small vial of witch hazel or 
other wash, as may be selected by himself, 
and soft sponge to properly nurse his bird 
between pittings, it allowed by rules govern- 
ing. 

Never fail to replace the wings to their 
natural position, enabling a cock to produce 
whatever speed he may possess. 

If rules will permit, never fail to clear the 
throat of a groggy cock as often as necessary 
during time allowed ior nandling. Quick 
and active handling at the proper time may 
enable one to prevent a cock's becoming bad- 
ly rattled or seriously injured about the 
head and neck. 

Never fail to carefully examine eyes, keep- 



28 

ing as clean as possible. It blinked, be care- 
ful in pitting to give the good side toward 
the opponent. 

In some articles, hovering over your cock 
is considered untair, even if permitted by the 
rules governing. Don't practice it, as it is a 
disadvantage and injury to your own chance 
of winning. Give your bird plenty of room. 
Careful handling during conditioning and 
pitting will protect yourself against one who 
is constantly hovering or trying to ge't mixed 
up with his own bird. Although often re- 
sorted to in sharp practice, a competent pit- 
ter and a well trained bird can protect him- 
self when judges are honest and capable. 



29 



VALUABLE RECEIPES. 

For Canker in Mouth. — Use bu?-nt alum 
Ireely after removing cankered tissue. It 
very severe case burn the afTected surface 
with a stick of nitrate ot silver every other 
day. 

For Cuts and Bruises or Sores of any 
kind, whitch hazel salve is one ot the best 
preparations to use. 

For Vermin. — Dust with insect powder 
and put a few drops ot ol. sassafras around 
the vent. 

For Wash During Conditioning— Witch 
hazel is the most wholesome and strengthen- 
ing of any to be used; is also a disenfectant. 
Can be applied with a small sponge- 

A few drops of Spirits of nitre in a quart 
of water is a good thing lor fowls out ot 
condition. 

For Rattles in the Throat. — A tea- 
spoonful of equal parts of vinegar and kero- 
sene oil twice daily will accomplish as much 
as anything that can be administered. 



30 

Douglass Fluid Mixture. — 

Sulphuric Acid, one ounce, 
Copperas, one pound. 
Water, two gallons, 

One tablespoonful ot the solution to be used 

in six quarts ot water. 

• Douglass Powder Mixture. — Equal 
parts of powdered 

Rhubarb, Sulpher, 

Charcoal, Capsicum, 

Chalk, Sulphate of Iron. 

Ginger, Rosin. 

Use about one teaspoonful in each feed ot 
bread and milk while conditioning. 

Old Fashion corn Bread. — 

One fresh egg, 

Salaratus, one-half teaspoontul. 

Buttermilk, one cupful, 

Cornmeal, two cupsful. 

Flour, one tablespoonful. 
Steam two hours in tight pail, then place in 
oven for twenty minutes. This is to be feed 
during conditioning on the morning of the 
iourth day. 

For Bruises About the Head and Eyes, 
use hot water freelv. 



31 



DONT'S. 

Don't tease a cock. 

Don't dub your stags too early. 

Don't spar a cock without muffs. 

Don't fight a cock out of condition. 

Don't spar your cock too frequently. 

Don't be afraid of too much light^in pit. 

Don't allow stags to be bossed when walk- 
ed. 

Don't fight a stag until at least ten months 
old. 

Don't think that games mature with equal 
rapidity. 

Don't think that all birds similarly bred 
are equal fighters. 

Don't let size nor color be your onl}- guide 
in selecting your best chicks. 

Don't condemn a bird because he will not 
fight when out of condition. 

Don't think by making a cock ugly you 
will improve his fighting qualities. 

Don't be convinced that continuous in- 
breeding is»beneficial to your stock. 

Don't fight a cock overweighted as the 
wheeling habit is not to be acquired. 



32 

Don't fight a cock with broken wing or tail 
feathers, provided otherwise in condition. 

Don't aHow printers' ink to induce you to 
forsake a well-tried strain for an uncertainty. 

Don't fight a cock in pin feathers,, toes that 
have been frozen nor with cankered mouth. 

Don't depend too much upon name, seek 
speed, endurance and aggressiveness at all 
hazards. 

Don't put perches too high, nor use coal 
cinders in the coop, or 3^our bird is liable to 
develope corns, 

Don't allow a cock to spar on a floor nor 
smooth surface as great injury may follo\v 
in event of straining himself. 



33 



PIT RULES OF AHERICA. 

In several of the old books on cock-fig-hting" 
it was the custom to devote page after page 
to the different sets of pit rules. Many of 
the sets were very similar and some exactly 
identical, yet all were given in lull. Some- 
times the same set would be repeated under 
another name, and oftentimes the same thing 
would be told over and over again with very 
little variation. Now the writer has here 
attempted to arrange and condense the 
essential rules into a small space, so that they 
may be in a convenient, handy form, and still 
so thorough that a man may grasp the essen- 
tial features ot the whole outfit in a moment's 
time. 

There are in the United States and Canada 
three distinct systems or plans of pit rules: 

THE NEW YORK 

set and its variations, used in New York, 
New Jersey, and the New England States. 

THE SOUTHERN 

used in most of the Southern States east of 
the Mississippi. 

THE NEW W^ESTERN 

used in nearly all the balance ot the states 



34 

and also in Canada — by far the larg^est terri- 
tory on the globe employing one system ot 
pit rules. 

NEW WESTERN PIT RULES. 

1. The two pitters shall choose a time- 
keeper and a referee. It shall be the duty of 
the lormer to keep time between rounds, and 
notify handlers to "get ready" at twenty-five 
seconds, then call "time" at thirty seconds 
The referee shall pay close attention to the 
handlers and birds, and see that the fol- 
lowing rules are strictly adhered to: 

2. All birds under 6-4, weighing within 
two ounces of each other are matched, ex- 
cept stags and broken-bill and blinker cocks, 
which shall be allowed four ounces against 
sound cocks. Sound cocks weighing 6-4 and 
upwards shall be fought as shakebags and 
matched regardless of weight. 

3. All gaffs shall be round from socket to 
point ; no others will be allowed. 

4. Alter the birds are heeled they shall be 
weighed by the referee who will call out 
their respective weights. He shall also ex- 
amine the birds' gaffs. 

5. Upon entering the pit the handler shall 
let the cocks peck each other three or four 



35 

times ; they shall then step to their respect- 
ive scores, (which scores shall be tour teet 
each way from the center), set their birds 
squarely on their feet and instantly release 
them. 

6. It is no fight unless a blow is struck 
while both cocks show. 

7. It shall be unfair for a handler to touch 
either cock except as directed by the reteree. 

8. The referee shall order a handler to give 
his cock a wing when necessary, or turn a 
bird that is on its back. These directions 
may be given only when the cocks are not 
touching each other. 

9. The referee shall call "handle" whenever 
a cock is fast in his antagonist, in himself or 
in the pit, (except during a count, in which 
case the birds are not to be handled until the 
end of the count), also at the end of "counts'' 
and "minutes," and at other times when nec- 
essary. 

10. The handler of the gaffed cock shall 
draw the heels, catching the leg of his oppo- 
nent's bird below the hock joint. The bird 
must not be raised from the pit floor until 
alter the gaffs have been drawn. 

11. Thirty seconds is the time allowed in 



36 

all handlings, time to commence as soon as 
the cocks are lilted off the floor of the pit. 

12. Betvveen pittings it shall be lair for the 
handlers to wash their birds' heads, give re- 
freshments, and help their cocks in any other 
way possible, but they must be ready to pit 
promptly on call ot time. 

13. As soon as one cock ceases fighting, 
the referee shall call to the handler ot the 
fighting cock. *' Mr. A., count;" whereupon 
that handler shall count ten in an audible 
tone. Alter being handled the cock shall be 
pitted again and so continue until three tens 
in all have been counted. After the third 
count and handle, the cocks are to be placed 
breast to breast on the center score, when 
the pitter having the count shall count 
twenty and the fight is ended in his favor. 

14. The count can be broken only by a peck 
or blow from the cock which is being counted 
out, or by the death of the cock having the 
count, or by that cock showing unmistakable 
evidence of wanting to run away, in which 
case the referee shall call "count broken." 

15. It the cocks should both cease fighting 
at the same time, or should refuse to meet at 
the beginning of a round, the referee shall 



37 

call for one minute's time, at the expiration 
of which the cocks are to be handled and 
again pitted. If they refuse to meet alter 
the second minute, they are to be handled 
and pitted again, until the expiration of the 
third minute, and then they are to be hand- 
led and breasted on the center score. And 
if they still refuse to fight at the expiration 
of one minute, a fresh cock is to be brought 
to the pit. If one combatant shows fight and 
the other does not, the battle is given to the 
fighting cock. If both fight or both refuse, 
it is a drawn battle. 

i6. If both cocks die, neither having the 
count, the longest liver wins. It the cock 
having the count is dying and the other cock 
wanting to run, the former wins the battle 
even though he die before the expiration of 
the count. 

17. The reteree shall watch all movements 
of the fight and confine the handlers strictly 
to the above rules. He may overlook what 
he believes to be an unintentional error, but 
must decide the battle against any handler 
who plainly and willfully violates the rules. 



88 
NEW YORK RULES. 

1. The pit shall be circular in shape, at 
least eighteen feet in diameter and not less 
than sixteen inches in height. The floor shall 
be covered with carpet or some other suit- 
able material. There shall be a chalk or some 
other mark made as near to the center of the 
pit as possible. There shall also be two 
outer marks which shall be one toot each 
way from the center mark. 

2. The pitter shall select one judge who 
shall choose a referee, Said judge shall de- 
cide all matters in dispute during the pen- 
dency of the fight, but in case of their inabil- 
ity to agree, then it shall be the duty of the 
referee to decide and his decision shall be 
final. 

3. Chickens shall take their age Irom the 
the first day of March and shall be chickens 
during the fighting season. 

4. It shall be deemed foul tor any ot the 
respective pitters to pit a cock or chicken 
with what is termed a foul hackle, that is, 
any of the feathers left whole on the mane 
or neck. 

5. The pitters shall let the cocks bill each 
other three or more times, but this is not to 



39 

be construed that the pitter ot a cock has a 
right to bill with his opponent's cock for the 
purpose of fatiguing him. 

6. No person shall be permitted to handle 
his fowl after he is fairly delivered in the pit 
unless he counts ten clear and distinct, with- 
out either cock making fight, or shall be fast 
in his adversary, or fast in the carpet or hung 
in the web of the pit or in himselt. 

7. Any cock that may get on his back 
shall be righted again by the pitter, but not 
taken off the ground he is lying on. 

8. Whenever a cock is fast in his adversary 
the pitter of the cock the spurs are fast in 
shall draw them out, but the pitter of the 
cock has no right to draw out his own spurs 
except when fast in himself or in the carpet, 
or in the web ot the pit. 

9. When either pitter has counted ten tens 
successivelv without the cock refusing fight 
or making fight, or on the two cocks being 
again breasted fair on their feet, beak to beak 
on the center score or mark, the cock refus- 
ing to fight shall be declared the loser on ten 
being counted. The pitters are bound to tell 
each ten as they count them, as follows: 
Once, twice, etc. 



40 

10. No pitter atter the cocks have been de- 
clared in the pit shall be permitted to clean 
their beaks or eyes by blowing- or otherwise, 
or be permitted to squeeze his fowl or press 
him against the floor during the pendency 
of the fight. 

11. When a cock is pounded and no per- 
son takes it until the pitter counts twenty, 
and then counts nineteen or twenty and calls 
three times, " who takes it," and no person 
takes it, it is a battle to the cock the odds 
are on ; but the pitter ot the pounded cock 
has the right to have the pound put up that 
is twenty dollars against one dollar. If this 
is not complied with the pitter shall go on as 
though there was no poundage. 

12. If a cock is pounded and the poundage 
is taken, and if the cock the odds are paid 
against should get up and knock down his 
adversary, then if the other cock is pounded 
and the other poundage not taken before the 
pitter counts twenty twice, and calls out, 
" Who takes it," three times, he wins, 
although there was a poundage before. 

13. It shall be the duty of the respective 
pitters to deliver their cock fair on its feet on 
the outer score or mark facino^ each other, 



41 

and in a standing position, except on the fifth 
ten being told when the3^ the two cocks, 
shall be placed on the centre score, breast to 
breast and beak to beak in like manner. Any 
pitter being guilty of shoving his toot across 
the score, or of pinching or using any other 
unlair means for the purpose of making his 
cock tight, shall lose the tight. 

14. If both cocks fight together, and then 
both should refuse until they are counted out, 
in such cases a tresh cock is to Le hoveled 
and brought into the pit, and the pitters are 
to toss lor which cock is to set-to first. 
He that wins has the choice. Then the one 
which is to set-to last is to be taken up but 
not carried out of the pit. The hoveled cock 
is then to be put down to the other and al- 
lowed to fight while the judges, or one of 
them, shall count twenty. The same opera- 
tion shall be gone through with the other 
cock, and if one fight and the other refuse, it 
is a battle to the fighting cock, but if both 
fight, or both refuse, it is a drawn battle. 

N. B. This rule is rarely carried into effect, but auy 
pitter cau exact it if he think proper to clo so. 

15. If both cocks refuse fighting until four, 
five or more or less tens are counted, the pit- 
ter shall continue their count until one cock 



42 

has refused ten time, tor when a pitter begins 
to count he counts for both cocks. 

i6. If a cock should die before he is count- 
ed out he wins the battle if he fights last. 
This, however, is not to apply when his ad- 
versary is running away. 

17. The crowing or raising of the hackle 
of a cock is not fight, nor is fighting at the 
pitter's hands. 

18. A breaking cock is a fighting cock, but a 
cock breaking from his adversary is not fight. 

19. If any dispute arises among the pitters 
on the result of a fight the cocks are not to be 
taken out of the fight, nor the gaffs taken off 
until a decision has been made by the judges 
or referee. 

20. Each cock within two ounces of each 
other shall be a match except blinkers, when 
they are fighting against two eyed cocks, 
an allowance from three to five ounces shall 
be made. When blinkers are matched against 
each other, the same rule to apply as in ref- 
erence to two-eyed cocks 

21. All matches must be fought with heels, 
round from the socket to the point, not ex- 
ceeding one and a quarter inches in length 
unless otherwise agreed upon. Drop Sockets, 



43 

Cutters, Slashers and twisted heels shall be 
considered foul. 

22. Previous to heeling- the cocks in fight- 
ing mains the tour spurs ot same pattern and 
size shall be placed together and the pitter 
shall toss for choice ot them. 

23. In all mains at the end of each battle 
the judges shall order the spurs to be chang- 
ed, i. e., the spurs ot the winning cock must 
be placed on the loser's next fowl and chang- 
ed at the end of each battle. 

24. Any person fighting a cock heavier than 
he is represented on the match list shall lose 
the fight, although he may have won. 

25. In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases 
until the judges or the referee give their de- 
cision, which shall be final and strictly to the 
question before them. 

26. When a bet is made it cannot be declar- 
ed off unless by consent of both parties, all 
outside bets to go according to the main bet. 

27. Each pitter when delivering- his cock 
on the score shall take his hands off him as 
quickly as possible. 

28. Any person violating any of the above 
rules shall be deemed to have lost the match. 



44 

SOUTHERN RULES. 

Note. On the morning- the main is to com- 
mence the parties decide by lot who shows 
first. It is to be remembered that the party 
obtaining choice generally chooses to weigh 
first, and consequently obliges the adverse 
party to show first, as the paity showing first 
weighs last. When the show is made by the 
party the door of the cock house is to be 
locked and the key given to the other party, 
who immediately repairs to his cock house 
and prepares for weighing. There ought to 
be provided a pair of good scales and weights 
as low down as half an ounce. One or two 
judges to be appointed to weigh the cocks. 
Each party by weighing the cocks intended 
for the show, a day or two betorehand and 
having all their respective weights, would 
greatly facilitate the business of the judges. 
There ought to be no feathers cut or plucked 
from the cocks before they are brought to the 
scale, except a few from behind to keep them 
clean, and their wings and tails clipped a 
little. 

2, As soon as the cocks are all weighed the 
judge, the writers and the principals of each 
party and as many besides as the parties may 
agree upon, are to retire for the purpose of 
matching. They are to be all even matches 
first, then those within one ounce, and after- 



45 



ward those within two ounces; but if more 
matches can be made by breaking an even 
or one ounce match, it is to be done. 

3. On the day ot the showing-, only one 
battle is to be fought. Il is to be remember- 
ed that the party winning the show gains also 
the choice ol fighting this first battle with any 
particular cocks in the match. Afterwards 
they begin with the lightest pair first and so 
on up to the heaviest, fighting them in rota- 
tion as they increase in weight. The first 
battle, too, will fix the mode of trimming. 

Rule i, When the cocks are in the pit, 
the judges are to examine whether they are 
fairly trimmed and have fair heels. It all be 
right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their 
cocks six feet apart (or thereabouts) and re^ 
tire a step or two back ; but if a wrong coct: 
should be produced, the party so offending 
forleits that battle. 

2. All heels that are round from the socket 
to the point are allowed to be fair; any pit- 
ter bringing a cock into the pit with any other 
kind of heels, except by particular agree- 
ment, forfeits the battle. 

3. Il either cock should be trimmed with 
a close, unfair back the judge shall direct 
the other to be cut in the same manner, and 
at the time shall observe to the pitter that if 
he brings another cock in the like situation, 
unless he shall have been previously trimmed, 
he shall forfeit the battle. 



46 

4- A pitter when he delivers his cock shall 
retire two paces back, and not advance or 
walk around his^cock until a blow has passed. 

5. An interval ot — minutes shall be allow- 
ed between the termination of one battle and 
the commencement ot another. 

6. No pitter shall pull a leather out ot a 
cock's mouth or from over his eyes or head, 
or pluck him by the breast to make him fight, 
or punch him for the like purpose, under 
penalt}^ ot forfeiting the battle. 

7. The pitters are to give the cocks room 
to fight, and not to hover and press on them 
so as to retard their striking. 

8. The greasing, peppering, muffing and 
sooping a cock, or any other external appli- 
cation, are unfair practices, and by no means 
admissible in this amusement. 

9. The judges, when required, may suffer 
a pitter to call in some of his friends to assist 
in catching the cock, who are to retire imme- 
diately when the cock is caught, and in no 
other instance is the judge to suffer the pit 
to be broken. 

10. All cocks on their back are to be imme- 
diately turned over on their bellies by their 
respective pitters at all times. 

11. A cock when down is to have a wing 
given him if he needs it, unless his adversary 
is on it, but his pitter is to place the wing 
gently in its proper position, and not to lift 



47 

the cock ; and no wing is to be given unless 
absolutely necessary. 

12. If either cock should be hanged in 
himselt, in the pit, or canvass, he is to be 
loosened by his pitter; but if in his adversary 
both pittersare to immediately lay hold of 
their respective cocks, and the pitter whose 
cock is hung shall hold him steady while the 
adverse draws out the heel, and then they 
shall take their cocks asunder a sufficient dis- 
tance for them fairly to renew the combat. 

13. Should the cocks separate and the 
judge be unable to decide which fought last, 
he shall at his discretion direct the pitters to 
carry their cocks to the middle of the pit and 
deliver them back to back, unless either of 
them is blind ; in that case they are to be 
shouldered, that is, delivered with their 
breasts touching, each pitter taking care to 
deliver his cock at this, as well as all times 
with one hand. 

14. When both cocks cease fighting, it is 
then in the power of the pitter of the last 
fighting cock, unless they touch each other, 
to demand a count of the judges, who shall 
count forty deliberately, which when count- 
ed out, is not to be counted again during 
the battle. Then the pitters shall catch their 
cocks and carry them to the middle of the 
pit and deliver them beak to beak; but to be 
shouldered if either are blind as before. 
Then if either cock refuses or neglects to figh 



48 

the judge shall count ten, and shall direct the 
pitters to bring their cocks again to the mid- 
dle of the pit and pit as before ; and if the 
same cock in like manner refuses, he shall 
count ten again and call out -'twice refused," 
and so proceed until one cock thus refuses 
six times successively. The judge shall then 
determine the battle against such cock. 

15. If either cock dies before the judge 
can finish the counting of the law, the battle 
is to be given to the living cock, and if both 
die, the longest liver wins the battle. 

16. The pitters are not to touch their cocks 
whilst the judge is in the act of counting. 

17. No pitter is ever to lay hold of his 
adversary's cock, unless to draw out the heel 
and then he must take them below the knee. 
Then there shall be no second delivery, that 
is, after he is once delivered he shall not be 
touched until a blow is struck, unless or- 
dered. 

18. No pitter shall touch his cock unless at 
the time mentioned in the foregoing rules. 

19. If any pitter acts contrary to these 
rules, the judge, if called upon at the time, 
shall give the battle against him. 



'-'r N^WIIOI^tOO 



002 857 234 7 




